I see.
Fleetwood Neon trail camper
- Thread starter LBarr2002
- Start date
How much to small? It may be easier to machine the hubs down to fit a factory wheel. That way you are not stuck on what tire goes where. I know I always try to work my spare into the rotation so that the tread level matches on my vehicle. It isn't working on this suburban due to the stupid steel spare.
I'll have to look at it again. It wasn't much but probably too much to machine the hubs. I plan to run spacers too so that might make the fit easier.
As far as rotating spares, I always buy 4 tires and keep the worst of the old ones as spare. Current spare on the jeep is pretty rough, but it would get me home.
I had my trailer hubs off last night to service the bearings. I didn't get out the calipers or bore gauges, but it looked like I could chop a good bit out of the center. In all reality I am sure you are going to have to take it in somewhere to get the machine work done. Boring out a bare rim is easy. Turning down a hub is easy. A lot of mills won't be able to clamp a full tire and wheel. Mine will barely fit a 19.5" rim without the tire.
Tripp and I got started on the next stage of mods on the Neon.
First, reminder of what it looked like stock:
Today we got the spring swap done. I changed from the stock slipper springs to a double eye, shackle set-up. The springs are a little softer and it should be a little smother on rough roads.
The springs are the same width and length as the stock slippers. I bought this kit:
I used the original front mounts and thought I was going to get away with using the back hole in the stock slipper spring box, but the width was wrong. I ended up cutting the slipper boxes off and used the shackle mounts from the kit. Northern Tool part number for the springs is:
We also mocked up the new wheels and tires and thought out the 3 axis hitch setup. I have to gather a few more parts during the week and I'll get back on it next weekend.
First, reminder of what it looked like stock:
Today we got the spring swap done. I changed from the stock slipper springs to a double eye, shackle set-up. The springs are a little softer and it should be a little smother on rough roads.
The springs are the same width and length as the stock slippers. I bought this kit:
I used the original front mounts and thought I was going to get away with using the back hole in the stock slipper spring box, but the width was wrong. I ended up cutting the slipper boxes off and used the shackle mounts from the kit. Northern Tool part number for the springs is:
We also mocked up the new wheels and tires and thought out the 3 axis hitch setup. I have to gather a few more parts during the week and I'll get back on it next weekend.
For the coupler, I'll be using the design from this thread:
http://tventuring.com/trailerforum/thread-65.html
I'm making some minor changes, but I'll say up front that it won't be under $50... Damn inflation.
I'm waiting on a set of 2" spacers to come in to hopefully be able to fit factory Ravines, fingers crossed.
http://tventuring.com/trailerforum/thread-65.html
I'm making some minor changes, but I'll say up front that it won't be under $50... Damn inflation.
I'm waiting on a set of 2" spacers to come in to hopefully be able to fit factory Ravines, fingers crossed.
Parts came in today so I couldn't resist a test fit.
I was originally trying to use a set of 1.25" spacers. They would have had to been bored to fit the trailer hubs, and the wheels would have had to be bored to fit the dust caps. Tripp offered to buy the 1.25" for when he does his 8.8 swap so I ordered 2". With the 2" spacers, everything fits perfectly with no modification to the wheels, which will allow me to run the Jeep spare in an emergency. There should be enough room between the back of the tire and the box, and it only increases the width 1.75" per side.
I was originally trying to use a set of 1.25" spacers. They would have had to been bored to fit the trailer hubs, and the wheels would have had to be bored to fit the dust caps. Tripp offered to buy the 1.25" for when he does his 8.8 swap so I ordered 2". With the 2" spacers, everything fits perfectly with no modification to the wheels, which will allow me to run the Jeep spare in an emergency. There should be enough room between the back of the tire and the box, and it only increases the width 1.75" per side.
I think it that was the best way. Now you can use any Jeep wheel available. Looks great. I saw that hitch you are interested in a few months back and I want to do the same thing. This will be a great setup.
Parts came in today so I couldn't resist a test fit.
I was originally trying to use a set of 1.25" spacers. They would have had to been bored to fit the trailer hubs, and the wheels would have had to be bored to fit the dust caps. Tripp offered to buy the 1.25" for when he does his 8.8 swap so I ordered 2". With the 2" spacers, everything fits perfectly with no modification to the wheels, which will allow me to run the Jeep spare in an emergency. There should be enough room between the back of the tire and the box, and it only increases the width 1.75" per side.
I am done with wheels and tires.
Tripp and I spent a few hours Sunday building the coupler. Here's the major components before being welded into the 2" tube.
I need to weld the receiver tube to the trailer tongue, determine how long to cut the 2" piece, and weld the T in it, but that will have to wait a couple weekends.
Tripp and I spent a few hours Sunday building the coupler. Here's the major components before being welded into the 2" tube.
I need to weld the receiver tube to the trailer tongue, determine how long to cut the 2" piece, and weld the T in it, but that will have to wait a couple weekends.
The link ball on the right of the pictures gets welded into 2" square tubing and the bolt with rounded head rotates inside of it, giving you your roll (z axis). I still need to determine how long I want that piece of 2".
The coupler base (part that looks like a link mount) gets bolted to a standard receiver drawbar and provides you turning (x axis).
The 3/4 pin through the T provides the up and down ( y axis)
We made 3 changes from the designs in the link I posted.
1) The design called for a reducer in the 3/4 ID bushing of the T to make it 5/8 and use a standard hitch pin. I just left it 3/4 and bought a 3/4 pin.
2) he describes cutting a washer in half to give the T a cradle to ease in connecting. We did this instead:
3) 3/4 pin hole could have been drilled farther back, but to give more up and down clearance we used a hole saw and notched out the base.
1) The design called for a reducer in the 3/4 ID bushing of the T to make it 5/8 and use a standard hitch pin. I just left it 3/4 and bought a 3/4 pin.
2) he describes cutting a washer in half to give the T a cradle to ease in connecting. We did this instead:
3) 3/4 pin hole could have been drilled farther back, but to give more up and down clearance we used a hole saw and notched out the base.
I think i said "Steve's Tube laser would make this part its bitch" about 25 times.
It spoils you that's for sure. I respect when someone takes the time to make a nice clean part by hand getting the radius clean and consistent. Knew a body guy in Atlanta that was so anal about making parts by hand with minimal tools but the product always turned out amazing, mostly for thing that would never be seen.
I'm interested to see how the hitch turns out. My m416 has a ball and coupler on it now and I've twisted it up once before going through a ditch and had to replace the coupling. I've been wanting to change it to a different design ever since.
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So... If i draw up a solidwords model and send it to you.. you can pop us out a hand full of these 
Looks awesome! Makes me want to pimp out my pop up.
So... If i draw up a solidwords model and send it to you.. you can pop us out a hand full of these
I would be happy to pay for the material if I could get in on something like this. I need to make one but my welds look like gorilla snot.