97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
those are better than TNT because they have the rosette holes already, man it takes forever to drill all those holes
Auto Fab is building bumpers.
- Thread starter GREASEMONKEY
- Start date
those are better than TNT because they have the rosette holes already, man it takes forever to drill all those holes
How many holes are you drilling? I figured on one hole about every 6-8" That's only about 10 per side. That's only about 10min of work total.
97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
I did one hole every 6" on each plane, you have the side, angle and bottom and then the back side that it wraps up to. So your looking at 40 holes per side or so. On the two sets I have installed we mounted the longarms and crossmembers from the stiffener so they needed to be thoroughly welded.
I haven't seen a set that wraps the inner frame rail, just the side and bottom.
New pricing!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stubby front bumper 38" wide with shackle mounts $115
Stubby front bumper 45" wide with shackle mounts and angled ends $130
Full width 58" front, or rear bumper with shackle mounts $150
All other additional items added to the basic bumpers is staying the same, but with the price I am currently getting on steel and parts I was able to drop the basic starting price on my bumpers!
Stubby front bumper 38" wide with shackle mounts $115
Stubby front bumper 45" wide with shackle mounts and angled ends $130
Full width 58" front, or rear bumper with shackle mounts $150
All other additional items added to the basic bumpers is staying the same, but with the price I am currently getting on steel and parts I was able to drop the basic starting price on my bumpers!
97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
Hey Jeff,
I have been using Richland Industrial to get my steel for the past 8 years, but they dont have some sizes I'm looking for.
Can you check your supplier and see if you can get these and how much they are?
RECTANGULAR TUBING
1x3 tubing in something thinner than 1/8"
1x2 tubing in something thinner than 1/8"
Square TUBING
1x1 tubing in something thinner than 1/8"
1x1 in 1/8"
I have been using Richland Industrial to get my steel for the past 8 years, but they dont have some sizes I'm looking for.
Can you check your supplier and see if you can get these and how much they are?
RECTANGULAR TUBING
1x3 tubing in something thinner than 1/8"
1x2 tubing in something thinner than 1/8"
Square TUBING
1x1 tubing in something thinner than 1/8"
1x1 in 1/8"
Most XJ frame stiffeners don't wrap around the inner frame rail because of the pinch seam that sticks out. Outside and bottom plating is sufficient enough. The reasoning behind all the rosette holes is because of the strength concern with solid seam welding the plate to the sheetmetal. Stitch welding is the best technique on the long seams.
Talk to Greg at Dillon. I have not found anything they don't have!
I figured that was the deal with the XJ inner frame.
I had done some research and found that using 3/4" holes alternated high and low along the putter rail gave the best result, and bolting from the bottom with a 2" weld every 6-8" along the seam. That was the conclusion I arrived at as well. If there were to be more added later, like long arms ect.. then you would need to go a bit further. For a daily driver or even a weekend warrior trail rig it was more than sufficient.
I figured that was the deal with the XJ inner frame.
I had done some research and found that using 3/4" holes alternated high and low along the putter rail gave the best result, and bolting from the bottom with a 2" weld every 6-8" along the seam. That was the conclusion I arrived at as well. If there were to be more added later, like long arms ect.. then you would need to go a bit further. For a daily driver or even a weekend warrior trail rig it was more than sufficient.
3/4" hole is a great rosette size. I've done a lot of XJ frame plating and that has seemed to work great. 2" weld ever 6 to 8" is exactly what I do as well.
FYI. If you ever decide to make frame stiffeners, use 3/16's instead of 1/8". Believe it or not it's easier to weld the 3/16's to the sheet metal and is more beef than anyone would ever need. Speaking from experience.
FYI. If you ever decide to make frame stiffeners, use 3/16's instead of 1/8". Believe it or not it's easier to weld the 3/16's to the sheet metal and is more beef than anyone would ever need. Speaking from experience.
Just a thought. Research XJ shack relocation brackets. Super easy to mass produce and will sell very quickly.
Also... another beneficial area to plate on an XJ is the area around the steering box. In this case 1/8" plate is plenty. It allow for the use of the stock bolts without sacrificing so much thread engagement into the box. The piece I made for mine is about 10" wide and about 6" tall and covers the entire area around and surrounding the steering box. Same as frame stiffeners: 3/4" rosettes, and stitch weld outside. If you want I can loan you the template.
I'm sure you probably already know this.... but the reason that the 3/16" is easier to weld to the sheet metal than 1/8" is because of the angle of which you have to hold the tip of the gun. The technique is to aim the tip more onto the thicker material and let it build up enough to "flow" onto the thinner material. Focusing 75% of the heat onto the thicker material than the thinner to prevent burn through. 3/16" being thicker than 1/8" will hold up to the heat longer to ensure better penetration of the sheet metal.
Also... another beneficial area to plate on an XJ is the area around the steering box. In this case 1/8" plate is plenty. It allow for the use of the stock bolts without sacrificing so much thread engagement into the box. The piece I made for mine is about 10" wide and about 6" tall and covers the entire area around and surrounding the steering box. Same as frame stiffeners: 3/4" rosettes, and stitch weld outside. If you want I can loan you the template.
I'm sure you probably already know this.... but the reason that the 3/16" is easier to weld to the sheet metal than 1/8" is because of the angle of which you have to hold the tip of the gun. The technique is to aim the tip more onto the thicker material and let it build up enough to "flow" onto the thinner material. Focusing 75% of the heat onto the thicker material than the thinner to prevent burn through. 3/16" being thicker than 1/8" will hold up to the heat longer to ensure better penetration of the sheet metal.
I'll do what ever comes my way, but I'm not looking to expand anything just yet. I'm already knee deep in debt from steel, equip, ect....
I have had several people cancel orders as well. That really hurts!
On top of the fab work I'm still doing basic auto repair. I got 2 sets of gallinules this coming week, and an air ride on a Lincoln this week. So far I'm covering rent, but that's about it!
I have had several people cancel orders as well. That really hurts!
On top of the fab work I'm still doing basic auto repair. I got 2 sets of gallinules this coming week, and an air ride on a Lincoln this week. So far I'm covering rent, but that's about it!
What is the cost for a 45" with tapered ends, winch/farilead mount, and light tabs? Got any pics of something like that? I have to go and measure mine to see which Id like better 38,45, 54".
I know I dont want full width and I think 38 looks too small for what I want it to look like.
Now that I know your making bumpers I wont buy off the net or out of a catalog.
I know I dont want full width and I think 38 looks too small for what I want it to look like.
Now that I know your making bumpers I wont buy off the net or out of a catalog.
Your looking at $225 for a full width 54/58" bumper with shackle mounts and winch/fair lead mount.
45" stubby with shackle mounts and winch/fairlead mount is $205
Its about a week lead time on the bumpers right now, and unfortunately I started having to require 1/2 paid up front before I build. I was getting way to many customers ordering, and then back out on delivery.
45" stubby with shackle mounts and winch/fairlead mount is $205
Its about a week lead time on the bumpers right now, and unfortunately I started having to require 1/2 paid up front before I build. I was getting way to many customers ordering, and then back out on delivery.
Hi GreaseMonkey. I like your design for the front bumper with everything on it. I am interested in seeing what one looks like with the tapered ends on it. I will be looking to buy front and rear bumpers in about two months. Is this something you do all the time or just something you are tinkering with at the moment?
I run my little shop part time. I still work a full time job.
I will be building bumpers for quite a while! I also do general auto repairs and accessories. I'll install whatever you got, or sell ya what you need. There isn't much I don't do. I have 15+ yrs of auto repair, fab, accessory installation, and electronics. I am set up with a local paint shop, as well as upholstery, and transmission repair shops.
I will be building bumpers for quite a while! I also do general auto repairs and accessories. I'll install whatever you got, or sell ya what you need. There isn't much I don't do. I have 15+ yrs of auto repair, fab, accessory installation, and electronics. I am set up with a local paint shop, as well as upholstery, and transmission repair shops.
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Thats always a great idea. I had to pay in full for my rear before the company i bought it from would even start on production.