97TJGUZZY
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900-1100 depending on what's in it. It's more for icy roads up in the mountains and coming down Saluda grade like hills while towing it with the TJ.
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Offroad Teardrop
- Thread starter 97TJGUZZY
- Start date
900-1100 depending on what's in it. It's more for icy roads up in the mountains and coming down Saluda grade like hills while towing it with the TJ.
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Doesn't take much to push you down a muddy hill.
97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
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One Comment... It looks like there is absolutely nothing keeping the trailer from rolling onto its lid... Would it not be useful to have something to limit it to not flipping completely over? As light as thing thing will be, could it not be handy to have something to keep if from going over?
97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
my pintle has always had that option. with this one being 7' wide, I dont see it rolling on its lid very easy. And if it does, I think I would rather it do it by itself than take my jeep with it.
Looking good!
97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
So wiring a trailer with electric brakes, lights, onboard battery, and shore power....
Should I put the 7 way junction box on the tongue by the battery or in the rear storage area.
Seems if I mount the box in the rear I have the shortest run of separate wires. Or I could mount it on the inside of the frame rail basically over the axle as a mix of both.
Any ideas?
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Should I put the 7 way junction box on the tongue by the battery or in the rear storage area.
Seems if I mount the box in the rear I have the shortest run of separate wires. Or I could mount it on the inside of the frame rail basically over the axle as a mix of both.
Any ideas?
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97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
is a break-a-way switch required? I dont think its included with my axle and I wasnt planning to do it.
97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
I mean I know what it does, but is it required. Most people were asking why I wanted to put brakes on a 900lb trailer. I'll have to look into how much they are, but I'll probably leave it out for now.
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It could be a weight rating involved but I think a law was passed where any trailer with electric trailer brakes has to have a breakaway system. A standard trailer would have a little battery box that would stay charged when hooked to the tow vehicle and sends full power to the brakes if the switch is activated. On campers you don't need the extra battery box just the switch because you can use your existing camper battery.
I didn't read the whole thing, but it looks like over 3,000 breakaway is required. Under 3,000, brakes are not required so how could breakaway be required...
"(d) Every trailer, semitrailer and pole trailer, equipped with air or vacuum actuated brakes and every trailer, semitrailer and pole trailer, with a gross weight in excess of three thousand pounds, shall be equipped with brakes acting on all wheels and of such character as to be applied automatically and promptly, and remain applied for at least fifteen minutes, upon breakaway from the towing vehicle. "
http://law.justia.com/codes/south-carolina/2012/title-56/chapter-5/section-56-5-4850
You could, however, be ticketed for not having a working parking brake in you tow vehicle "adequate to hold the vehicle on any grade on which it is operated, under all conditions of loading, on a surface free from snow, ice, or loose material. "
"(d) Every trailer, semitrailer and pole trailer, equipped with air or vacuum actuated brakes and every trailer, semitrailer and pole trailer, with a gross weight in excess of three thousand pounds, shall be equipped with brakes acting on all wheels and of such character as to be applied automatically and promptly, and remain applied for at least fifteen minutes, upon breakaway from the towing vehicle. "
http://law.justia.com/codes/south-carolina/2012/title-56/chapter-5/section-56-5-4850
You could, however, be ticketed for not having a working parking brake in you tow vehicle "adequate to hold the vehicle on any grade on which it is operated, under all conditions of loading, on a surface free from snow, ice, or loose material. "
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97TJGUZZY
SUPPORTER
I’m on the fence about how I want to do Tail Lights. I can weld one of the oval LED light boxes to each side of the frame at the back and tie the rub rail in, or I could mount it right behind the fender on each side on top of the rub rail.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Oval-Red-...ash=item51dbd72ae8:g:AxMAAOSw8-tWZeEh&vxp=mtr
Or I could mount up some of the long LED lights and mount them on the back of the frame on either side of the hitch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Red-RV-Tr...ash=item1a0153ef57:g:KIcAAOSwv1RUYtka&vxp=mtr
I’m trying to decide how I would seal the frame and run the wires if I mount them to the back of the frame.
This drawing shows the option with the box at the back on the left, and what the rub rail would look like with no light box on the right.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Oval-Red-...ash=item51dbd72ae8:g:AxMAAOSw8-tWZeEh&vxp=mtr
Or I could mount up some of the long LED lights and mount them on the back of the frame on either side of the hitch.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Red-RV-Tr...ash=item1a0153ef57:g:KIcAAOSwv1RUYtka&vxp=mtr
I’m trying to decide how I would seal the frame and run the wires if I mount them to the back of the frame.
This drawing shows the option with the box at the back on the left, and what the rub rail would look like with no light box on the right.
