The rear wheel studs are shorter than the fronts and don't pretrude all the way through the lug nuts that hold the spacers on. I loctited them, but I think I'm going to go ahead and put in longer studs.
The rest of the changes on this wave will be underneath and not really noticeable.
Wheel/tire weights:
Ravine 33lbs, 33" bfg at 43lbs, total 62 lbs.
JK Moab 25.5 lbs, 35" km2 69 lbs, total 94.5 lbs.
If you have 1/2" of thread engagement you will be fine. Sometimes those open ended lug nuts are long and you actually have plenty of threads engaging even though they don't stick out the end of the nut.
I finally swapped out my single adjustable steel uppers for double adjustable aluminum. I've had them for a while but some time ago I discovered/remembered that my jeep had been drilled out for larger upper hardware. The joints in the steel arms fit the larger hardware, but the double adjustable joints are too small. So, I swapped the guts of the old joints over to the new arms.
I've handed her over to CFS to do some more work. I don't have the time to devote to the jeep before OSCAR with the baby coming. Its getting tube sleeves, c gussets, hd lowers, and lower skids on the front so it will hopefully live with those 35s.
When I get it back I need to address the gas tank. Any recommendations for skids?
Edit: Went ahead and ordered UCF to match the rest of my skids.
I still have, and use, both. I don't remember why I put the stock one on at that point, but the downsides of the rampage top is its loud and you loose cargo space because of how much it slants on an LJ. I really like that it stores the windows though. I mainly run the rampage as a trail top and the full top if it's the whole family with a bunch of stuff.
One of the vent/evap line fittings was broken. Hopefully that's where my recurring CEL for small evap leak is coming from. I ran to the auto parts store just before 9 and of course bought the wrong hose repair kit...
Most of the fuel line clips broke. Luckily Advance has them, Dorman #800-023 for an assortment of 5/16 and 3/8. #800-041 for the 5/8" at the evap canister.
I went ahead and put a new pump unit in it too. Don't want to ever have to drop the tank again.
Edit: the connection at the evap cannister is 5/8", so part number 800-041... Advance has a much better assortment of line repair parts and 800-058 was perfect to replace the broken fitting.
Did some trading around to get a set of red half doors. Tripp will now have green half doors with spice uppers, and I traded the black doors that he had (I bought from Barclay a couple years ago) for red ones.
I dented the rear driveshaft at Windrock last year. Picked up a backup while preparing for OSCAR but didn't swap it out. I kinda expected it to twist in half at gulches. Picked up a couple new u joints today and plan to put new joints in the spare and install it this weekend if I can find time to put my HF press together.
I'm planning to send the dented original to Carolina Driveline to be retubed. Anyone have experience doing that with a slip yoke shaft? Good idea?
I'll just take the whole thing to them. It won't make much of a difference if the ends are already cut off.
I'm second guessing it though because if the tube is thicker and you drop the weight of the jeep on the driveshaft, that's putting a lot of leverage on the tcase output instead of just denting the driveshaft. Probably over thinking it...