Dana 44 tech

XJ savage said:
If you already have a built 8.8, pick up a truck width 8.8 and swap the gears/locker over. WMS will match front and rear and you don't have to mess with wheel spacers.

I've always loved a 9" except for the stupid low pinion. That's the only reason I'd suggest not swapping one in.
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It will be a little bit wider than the J10 axle, From memory, the ford truck 8.8s are 65.5-66" wide. If you do go with a f150 8.8 be sure to get one of the pre 98 axles as they are 5 on 5.5.

only bad thing about the truck 8.8s is they didnt come with disc brakes till after they went to the metric bolt pattern.
 
97TJGUZZY said:
what bolt pattern do you plan to run? If you are happy with your 8.8 setup, you could run wheel adapters on the rear and you would only be ~2 inches wider in the front.
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I plan to keep 6 lug and get a set of shafts made for the 9".

XJ savage said:
If you already have a built 8.8, pick up a truck width 8.8 and swap the gears/locker over. WMS will match front and rear and you don't have to mess with wheel spacers.

I've always loved a 9" except for the stupid low pinion. That's the only reason I'd suggest not swapping one in.
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Well I do like my 8.8 and honestly I would like to run a full width one but Im not for a couple reasons. One is C-clip, Ive never had a break in my current axle but I know itll happen one day and I dont want to be stuck on the trail with my tire falling off. Another is that my gears and locker Im running now have so much gear whine above 50 mph and slop in them its outrageous. When you put the jeep in drive from park the driveshaft rotates about 3/4 a turn and slams the gears/locker into engagment(for lack of better words..) So since Im trying to get the Jeep back into driveable status to the trail I dont want to run these. What really has me thinking though is Ive seen a good handful of 9" breaks but I have never seen an 8.8 break.
 
Clemson5.9ZJ said:
I plan to keep 6 lug and get a set of shafts made for the 9".



Well I do like my 8.8 and honestly I would like to run a full width one but Im not for a couple reasons. One is C-clip, Ive never had a break in my current axle but I know itll happen one day and I dont want to be stuck on the trail with my tire falling off. Another is that my gears and locker Im running now have so much gear whine above 50 mph and slop in them its outrageous. When you put the jeep in drive from park the driveshaft rotates about 3/4 a turn and slams the gears/locker into engagment(for lack of better words..) So since Im trying to get the Jeep back into driveable status to the trail I dont want to run these. What really has me thinking though is Ive seen a good handful of 9" breaks but I have never seen an 8.8 break.
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If you break a shaft in an 8.8 the disc brake will hold the shaft in. But you wouldnt want to drive it very far on an 8.8 or a 9" with a broken shaft because the inner piece is going to rape the outside of your carrier bearings.

and yeah, 9" are known for stripping splines, and lockers.
 
97TJGUZZY said:
If you break a shaft in an 8.8 the disc brake will hold the shaft in. But you wouldnt want to drive it very far on an 8.8 or a 9" with a broken shaft because the inner piece is going to rape the outside of your carrier bearings.

and yeah, 9" are known for stripping splines, and lockers.
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If I go through with what I've been thinking about I may run a Trail Gear 9 with a 5 lug 60 front. I think that 9" maybe different since its got unit bearings.
 
01tj said:
If I go through with what I've been thinking about I may run a Trail Gear 9 with a 5 lug 60 front. I think that 9" maybe different since its got unit bearings.
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Apparently they are pretty good. Thats what I got Chris for his new ride.
 
So Im trying to remove the cast leaf spring perch off the driver side of the axle housing. Me and David did some measurments today and its going to be in the way of my coil spring mounts. Anyone have any tips for this? Heres a picture of what I started doing and Im getting my *** kicked by it now, cant make it budge.
ACB0A7F6-A0E8-41FF-BA3C-AB0B6EE9F57E-554-0000004A7DEEB40B.jpg
01D40502-EBD0-4176-A6CA-13DF7189531A-554-0000004A71C9AA98.jpg
 
Cool good to hear. Getting dark and our lights in the garage suck. Ive just been worried about cutting to deep into the tube. Guess the tubes are thick and if I do cut a little deep can just weld it up after. Im gonna start cutting again in the morning.
 
I welded mine onto the cast. Yes people say stuff about welding to cast is weak, but it's almost as strong if you hear it up. So we heated it up before welding too it, and with 3/8 inch coil buckets I don't think it's going to be a problem strength wise
 
mcannon111 said:
I welded mine onto the cast. Yes people say stuff about welding to cast is weak, but it's almost as strong if you hear it up. So we heated it up before welding too it, and with 3/8 inch coil buckets I don't think it's going to be a problem strength wise
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The welds made between cast and mild are not weak, there just a pain in the *** to do right.

Clemson5.9ZJ said:
Heres a picture of what I started doing and Im getting my *** kicked by it now, cant make it budge.
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More cutting, less b!tching!
 
Clemson5.9ZJ said:
So Im trying to remove the cast leaf spring perch off the driver side of the axle housing. Me and David did some measurments today and its going to be in the way of my coil spring mounts. Anyone have any tips for this? Heres a picture of what I started doing and Im getting my *** kicked by it now, cant make it budge.
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There's a picture just a few posts up that shows a helleva lot easier way..........
 
meaders said:
yeah, he didn't cut the cast off......
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oh, your talking about how mason welded it to the cast. mmmmm i'm still skeptical on that. I guess for a coil bucket it would be ok, I would hesitate to weld the control arm to the cast though. I know tons of people do it, I just dont like it. haha.
 
if ya scared, say ya scared. :flipoff2: lol..... cast steel and cast iron are way different. I know you can remember back in the day the pitman arms as highsteer arms.......
 
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