ABS Tone Rings Question?

highpockets

highpockets

0
I have decided that i need new axle shafts and I am trying to find some chromoly shafts with the ABS tone rings on them. All of the manufactures that I talk to say that theres does not come with the rings attached. They say just pop the old ones off and install them on the new shafts. Has any of you every done this before and if so can you give me some tips as how to remove them with beating them all to Hattie's?
 
highpockets said:
I have decided that i need new axle shafts and I am trying to find some chromoly shafts with the ABS tone rings on them. All of the manufactures that I talk to say that theres does not come with the rings attached. They say just pop the old ones off and install them on the new shafts. Has any of you every done this before and if so can you give me some tips as how to remove them with beating them all to Hattie's?
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Press the ring off of the old shaft, then press them onto the new shaft when your pressing on the new bearings, seals, and backing plates. Another option is to leave everything on your stock shafts and just pick up new tone rings, backing plates, and seals from a vendor such as ECGS (thats who I get all of my axle parts from as they usually have them in stock).

Edit: Just noticed that you had a TJ (I was thinking JK for some reason or another). You don't have to run the tone rings on a TJ as the tone rings are ONLY for the ABS, which is garbage offroad (IMO). Other rigs, like JKs and other newer jeeps use the tone rings to run the speedo, stability control, and ABS; so you cant really just turn it all off. Also considering you have a TJ with ABS makes me pretty sure that you have a dana 35 rear. If that is in fact that case then I really wouldn't bother wasting the money on chromos as they spider gears or carrier will let loose next. If you are dead set on retaining the ABS, then there are plenty of options if you were to upgrade to a 44, 8.8, 9", d60 etc. You just have to do some sideways math to match the diameter and tooth count of the rings on the front shaft to make everything work correctly.

When I swapped the axles on my 00 TJ, which had factory ABS, I just pulled the speed sensors and wires along with pulled the fuses out of the PDC for the ABS module which in turn got rid of the dash light.

Anyway, just my 2 cents.
 
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It's not what I did It's what this guy that calls his self a mech. did. Ok here’s the story. I bought this Jeep in July of this year, the body is in great shape and it seemed to drive out ok. Well about a month after I bought it the rear axle started making some racket. I took it to a shop that I have used in the past and the mech. said it sounded like the differential bearings and he would check it out. When I got it back he said the axle bearings were bad also and to save me some money he had installed a set of bearings that moved the contact point on the axle shafts to another location there by saving me the expense of buying new axles. About 850 miles later the rear driver side started rumbling. I took it back in and he said that it need friction modifier and kept it a week to add a bottle to it. When I got it back it sounded a little better for a while then it started again. This time I took it to a 4x4 shop just outside Lexington and let him take a listen. He said it sounded like a wheel bearing but was not sure. So when I got it home I pulled the rear driver side axle and found some sort of bearing that had an inner oil seal the wheel bearing and an outer oil seal all made into one part and the housing of this unit had been broken when they had beat it into the axle tube. The bearing rollers had flat spots on them and the axle was in bad shape. So Now I'm looking for a set of axles. I don’t do a lot of hard wheeling and I don’t intend to with this Jeep, as I said at the first the body on this one is in great shape. That’s why I don’t worry about doing an axle swap. I want to save my money for when I get another Jeep and make it into a trail rig. And please excuse the spelling.
 
Do you have larger tires on your jeep? If so, then your ABS will not work properly even if it is hooked up. May as well bypass the ABS and run the chromos and new bearings.
 
Well to tell you the truth I am not sure, I know that sounds stupid but I haven’t checked to see what the stock size is supposed to be. What’s on there now is 30 x9.5 x15 and if the ABS doesn’t work with this tire size then I will try that. Just a question, is anything else tied in with that circuit?
 
highpockets said:
Well to tell you the truth I am not sure, I know that sounds stupid but I haven’t checked to see what the stock size is supposed to be. What’s on there now is 30 x9.5 x15 and if the ABS doesn’t work with this tire size then I will try that. Just a question, is anything else tied in with that circuit?
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30x9.5 is a stock size so it should still work. I was thinking you may have larger tires.

I have disconnected a few ABS units in TJs in the past when doing axle swaps and I'm fairly certain nothing is tied to it. You just pull the ABS fuse in the glove box so the light will go off on the dash.
 
Ok, well that’s always an option, because I was thinking that when these tires wore out moving to a little larger tire just to make the stance look a little better. Thanks for the information. I’ll keep looking for the best deal on axles and see what I can come up with. Hopefully I’ll get this thing back on the road soon. And can join yall at a ride.
 
highpockets said:
Ok, well that’s always an option, because I was thinking that when these tires wore out moving to a little larger tire just to make the stance look a little better. Thanks for the information. I’ll keep looking for the best deal on axles and see what I can come up with. Hopefully I’ll get this thing back on the road soon. And can join yall at a ride.
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If you need stock replacements I know myself, and probably a few others have some that could get ya back on the road.
 
Thanks, but I’d rather do it once and be done with it for a while at least. My thinking is I will eliminate the issues one segment at a time and by process of elimination get to the bottom of it. I think I may have another issue also. The differential case is getting a lot warmer than I think it should. I talked to a guy that said when new bearings are installed in a differential that there is a break in period of about 500 miles. I plan to keep a hand on it and see if it gets better as time goes on. He said that I might need to loosen the yoke nut a little. I was under the impression that once you had the crush collar torqued down you can’t back it off. Got any thoughts?
 
highpockets said:
Thanks, but I’d rather do it once and be done with it for a while at least. My thinking is I will eliminate the issues one segment at a time and by process of elimination get to the bottom of it. I think I may have another issue also. The differential case is getting a lot warmer than I think it should. I talked to a guy that said when new bearings are installed in a differential that there is a break in period of about 500 miles. I plan to keep a hand on it and see if it gets better as time goes on. He said that I might need to loosen the yoke nut a little. I was under the impression that once you had the crush collar torqued down you can’t back it off. Got any thoughts?
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you are correct, if you have crushed the crush sleeve, if you want to make it less tight, you have to use a new one.
 
Ok, I have ordered my new axles and expect them in any day now, but I have a question. How do the bearings in a Dana 35 C clip style axle get lubrication? According to the FSM there is only one oil seal on the axle and it is on the outside, and is installed after the bearing is installed. I know the Dana 44 has an inner and an outer seal but what about the D 35 C? Does this mean that the bearings in a Dana 35 C are wet bearings meaning they get there lubrication from the differential oil or is there an inner seal that the FSM is not telling about? If there is an inner seal where does it go? There doesn’t look like there is enough room in the bearing chamber for an inner seal, a bearing and an outer seal and if there is an inner seal does anyone know the part #?
 
highpockets said:
Ok, I have ordered my new axles and expect them in any day now, but I have a question. How do the bearings in a Dana 35 C clip style axle get lubrication? According to the FSM there is only one oil seal on the axle and it is on the outside, and is installed after the bearing is installed. I know the Dana 44 has an inner and an outer seal but what about the D 35 C? Does this mean that the bearings in a Dana 35 C are wet bearings meaning they get there lubrication from the differential oil or is there an inner seal that the FSM is not telling about? If there is an inner seal where does it go? There doesn’t look like there is enough room in the bearing chamber for an inner seal, a bearing and an outer seal and if there is an inner seal does anyone know the part #?
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the axle shaft bearings are lubed by the gear oil in the axle tube.
 
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