I literally have 80 film cameras at my house and I don't think I'm exaggerating much with that. My dad has a certain era of most every Nikon and canon that he's collected as well as other random ones. He gave me a film camera a long time ago to learn some photography and developing film got expensive very fast wasting a lot. If I was good and really did care I might would mess with film but I'll stick to digital now.
I guess his main camera is a canon 5 mark ii and I use his old canon xti. Considering I'm clueless about cameras ive shot some pretty ok photos. Im curious about the photoshop element y'all speak of
4x5 field camera!!?? Too much want. I guess I need to procure one for my western trip (assuming I stop pushing it back).
I haven't kept up with new DSLRs in about a year and a half. My current setup has been working very good for the last 4 or 5 years so no reason to go messing around with it.
5D mark 1's have to be cheap as dirt now. However the glass, that always stays pricey.
Steve, one last thing: by editing your photos in Elements, you can turn your ok photos (assuming framing, focus, and settings are good) into great photos. Processing your photos is an important part.
Also since you are a student, Adobe gives discounts to students for these programs so you can order it directly from Adobe. That is what I did back when I was a student. Saved some $$$.
Back on topic: Brooks, I will do some looking into HDR and get back to you. Also might dabble in it a little myself.
Steve,
Check out KEH.com for lenses. Camera lenses are like hand tools, as long as the owner hasn't damaged them they last forever. Last I checked in Canon world, the 24-105L is about the best all around you can get. From what I heard, the Sigma lenses are made for Canon cameras. Normally I don't recommend 3rd party lenses (had many bad experiences) but Sigma lenses have been good to my Canon folk. I tried a couple Sigma lenses on my Nikon, no dice. But I did run a Sigma 24-70 on a Canon 30D a while ago. Reminded me of riding in a bone stock Classic Ford Bronco with the top down, felt right.
Yeah, cameras and wheeling. Don't get me going. Have to shoot me to shut up.

: Ghost, my 18-200 (pretty much the only thing I use for off road photography) is on its 3rd or 4th UV filter and hood. I've killed a few hoods from dropping it. However hoods for that lens are $15. New lenses...well...are A LOT more than that!
Brooks, so I did research on this HDR business. Basically, you need to buy a program. There are a number of them out there that you download. Seems like you can get a pretty decent one for the ~$30 range. Not too bad. I looked into using photoshop elements to do the work. Didn't find anything in my initial search.
Only thing about HDR, it is overdone. Everyone and their brother has done it and most HDR photos are overdone. Look almost like a cartoon rather than an actual photograph. There is an HDR thread on pirate and if I remember correctly, the general reply was...negative.
If you've got a DSLR, I recommend learning how to actually use the camera on something other than the "auto" setting (if you already haven't) and getting photoshop elements. That'll do a lot more for you than a HDR program. Every once in a while I see a "intro to photography" lesson thingie on the groupon. I would say keep your eyes open on that or something similar. Also I offer lessons. Generally an afternoon costs a case of silver bullet assuming this is occuring in my neck of the woods![]()
From what I see, you are taking mainly landscape style photos. For this, you want a small aperture setting.
What does this mean? The Aperture is a hole in the lens that controls how much light comes in. The trade off: big hole = more light in, but shallower depth of field (less is in focus). Small hole = less light in, but larger depth of field (more things at different distances are in focus). So for these kinda photos, I would say start playing around with the aperture. Typically, f/16 is recommended for these kind of photos.
However with a smaller aperture, comes longer shutter speeds. Take you hand and hold it out in front of you. Notice it moving? Yep. That is what your body does, moves. As you can imagine, the longer the shutter is open, the more prone your body is to affecting the image (AKA, your hands are shaking and thus, shake the camera, which shakes the image). From personal experience, 1/60 seems to be the lowest I like to go. Now I have gotten good shots at 1/10th shutter speed with a VR lens, but that was a lucky shot.
So how do you combat this? Tripod! A wal-mart tripod works well with a DSLR with the stock lens attached. As long as you don't start using heavy duty BAMF lenses (which I assume you won't) these little tripods work well. Heck, mine that I bought in 05' finally bit the dust on my last shoot. Its been a good one, I feel like I need to give it a proper burial or something. Bottom line, you can get a good-enough tripod for the same as taking your lady out for a fancy dinner sammich and a beer. Yes, I know. SOMETHING ELSE to carry. But I think you will see a difference in your photos if you do these two things.
Keep in mind what I suggested above is for LANDSCAPE photography only. You try to do this for off roading or sports and you will be upset with your results (well, assuming the planets don't align and grant you awesomeness, it has happened before but I wouldn't count on it).